Some days on the trail you just know are going to be special. Day 8 of our Italian adventure was one of those days—the kind where you wake up early with that buzz of anticipation, knowing something memorable is waiting.
We were staying in Val Gardena, a valley that had already stolen our hearts with its efficient bus system and stunning mountain backdrop. Our target for the day? The Sassolongo massif, that iconic cluster of pale spires that dominates the skyline like something out of a fantasy novel.
The Coffin Gondola Experience
After a lovely and very complete breakfast at our hotel (the Italians really know how to start a day), we hustled down the hill to catch the bus (and learned a new word - ritardo). About 45 minutes later, we arrived at the base of what we’d affectionately dubbed the “coffin gondola.”
Now, let me paint you a picture. This is a two-person enclosed gondola—tight, with tinted windows that get surprisingly warm in the sun. But the real adventure? Getting on the thing. It requires a running start.
Speaking virtually no Italian, and with the operators speaking very little English, we found ourselves in an elaborate game of charades. Which hand grabs the handle? When do you jump? Who goes first? We paired up—I rode with Noah—and watched the gondola come whipping around the corner.
You start a slow jog, grab the handle, leap in, and your partner jumps in right behind you. It was absolutely comical, and I’m pretty sure the operators have seen plenty of tourists fumble through it. But we made it, squeezed into our little capsule, and watched the world drop away beneath us.
The views on the way up were spectacular—rocky cliffs, sweeping valleys, and that particular Dolomite light that makes everything look almost unreal. Getting off at the top required the reverse maneuver, which was equally hysterical.
Standing on the Saddle
When you step out of the gondola station at the top, you’re standing on a saddle between two massive walls of rock. There’s a refugio right there with a little restaurant and restrooms (pro tip: bring a euro for the bathroom—this is standard practice throughout the region).
The view is absolutely stunning. Look one direction and you see down toward the resort below. Turn around, and the valley stretches out behind you in layers of green and gray and blue. Towering spires rise on either side, and if you’re into via ferrata, there are routes taking off from here that would make your heart race.
We weren’t doing the ferrata this time—just a good old-fashioned hike. Our plan was to take the long way around the massif instead of heading straight back down.
The Descent and the Refugio Lunch
Heading down the backside, the trail dropped steeply through endless switchbacks. Super rocky, very exposed to the sun, but the high elevation kept things from getting too hot. The scenery shifted constantly—dramatic cliffs giving way to scree fields, then opening up to wider views of the valley below.
Right around lunchtime (perfect timing), we hit a refugio nestled into the hillside. I need to look up the name of that place, but I can tell you it had a sun deck that felt like absolute heaven after all those switchbacks.
We settled in for another very Tyrolean lunch—hearty, warming, exactly what tired legs needed. There’s something magical about eating a proper meal at a mountain hut, surrounded by peaks, knowing you’ve earned every bite.
Rolling Through the Valley
From the refugio, we continued down to the valley floor where the trail split. We went left, which would eventually loop us back to the bus stop—about six more miles of gentle rolling terrain.
This section was gorgeous in a completely different way. Beautiful green pastures dotted with cows, gentle climbs around ridges, and that constantly shifting landscape as we moved around the massif. The Dolomites are like that—every few hundred meters, the scenery transforms.
We passed two or three more refugios along the way. That’s the thing about hiking in the Italian Alps—these huts are everywhere because the mountains double as ski resorts in winter. They’re perfect for lunch stops, water refills, or just a quick break to soak in the views.
There were a few interesting trail crossings where we had to hop over small gaps with some exposure. Nothing too serious, but enough to keep you paying attention.
The False Summit and Going Cross-Country
As we approached what we thought was the end, we climbed up to another beautiful refugio. There’s a great photo of Mark standing at the top of this hillside, the massif behind him, looking every bit the triumphant hiker.
We grabbed a Danish and refilled our water bottles (we were completely out at this point—it had been a slog up that last hill). Cows grazed nearby. Humans milled about. All felt right with the world.
And then we discovered we had a false summit. One more ridge to go.
At this point, we were on a road and honestly a bit bored, so we decided to mix things up and go cross-country. We headed up and over a small ridge—which I’ve since discovered is a ski slope in winter—and dropped down the other side until we could finally see the Sassolongo lift house where we’d started.
Waiting for the Bus
All in all, it was a full day—we used every hour of daylight. We waited about 30-40 minutes for the bus, but honestly, sitting there watching Sassolongo glow in the afternoon light wasn’t exactly a hardship.
Back at our condo, we ordered pizza from the restaurant downstairs. Some of the best pizza I’ve ever had—huge, delicious, and yes, kind of expensive. But at this point, we’d accepted that everything in the Dolomites comes with a premium, and it’s worth every euro.
We spent the evening on the balcony, watching the sunset paint the massif in shades of pink and gold. Pure magic. The next day would be a transition day—packing up and heading to Cortina—but for now, we just sat there, happily exhausted, already planning our return.
Tips & Info
- Getting There: Val Gardena has an excellent bus system. The ride to Sassolongo takes about 45 minutes from the main valley stops.
- The Gondola: Tickets are purchased at the base. Prepare for the running jump on and off—it’s part of the adventure!
- Bring Cash: Restrooms at refugios typically cost 1-2 euros, even if you’re eating at the restaurant.
- Water: Carry plenty and refill at refugios along the way. We ran out toward the end.
- Timing: Start early. This full-circuit hike takes most of the day.
- Trail Options: You can go straight back down for a shorter day, or circle the massif like we did for the full experience.
- Via Ferrata: Routes are available at the top if you have the gear and experience.
- Food: Don’t skip the refugio lunches—Tyrolean cuisine is hearty and delicious.
- Bus Schedule: Check return times before you start. You might have a 30-40 minute wait, but the views make it worthwhile.