Sometimes the best adventures are the ones you don’t plan. Our last day in Cortina d’Ampezzo started with no agenda—just a vague desire to explore town and see what we could get up to before heading back to the other side of the world.
All week, we’d been staring at the cable car stations dotting the mountainside from our apartment window, wondering how to get to the top of that massive peak looming to our left. A little internet sleuthing the night before revealed our answer: the Freccia nel Cielo, or “Arrow in the Sky.” We didn’t even know the mountain was called Tofana at the time. We just knew we wanted to get up there.
A Slow Morning in Town
We packed up our bags, laced up good walking shoes, and made the 15-minute walk down the hill into Cortina’s charming center. The town was already buzzing with activity—hikers with backpacks heading out for the day, early shoppers window-browsing the boutiques, and construction crews preparing for the upcoming Olympics.
We found a cute little café on one of the town squares and ordered cappuccinos and breakfast. There’s something magical about sitting outside on an Italian piazza in the morning light, watching the mountains wake up around you. The Dolomites have this way of making even a simple coffee feel like an event.
Finding the Freccia nel Cielo
Once sufficiently caffeinated, we walked across town toward the gondola station. Along the way, we stumbled upon some unexpected Olympic history—the men’s hockey rink from when Cortina hosted the Winter Games decades ago. The town was clearly gearing up for its return to the Olympic stage, with the bobsled track under construction just below the gondola’s path.
The Freccia nel Cielo journey is a three-stage affair that takes you from 1,216 meters in Cortina’s center all the way up to 3,244 meters at Tofana di Mezzo—the third highest peak in the Dolomites. First, a small gondola carries you to Col Druscié at 1,778 meters. From there, a larger cable car—one of those dramatic two-car systems where one goes up as the other comes down—takes you through Ra Valles at 2,470 meters before reaching the summit.
The kids were a little sketched out as we traveled up the sheer mountainside, but the views quickly distracted them. Off to our left, we could see the women’s Super-G course—the same one used in the World Cup and the Olympics. Having watched the races on TV, it was surreal to see the actual terrain. And let me tell you, it looked impossibly steep without snow.
At the Summit
We hopped off at the top and stepped onto a beautiful sun deck with stairs leading up to the rocks above. This is where serious hikers and Via Ferrata enthusiasts gear up for their adventures, but even without technical equipment, there’s plenty to explore.
What struck me most was realizing this was a ski area. In winter, people strap on skis and head down these slopes. Looking at the gradient, seeing the snow guns positioned along the runs, it felt almost impossible. But I suppose with a blanket of snow, perspective changes everything.
The kids and I had our sights set on the tippy-tippy-top—the true summit marked by an elevation sign and an iron cross. Mark wasn’t feeling the exposure, so he found a bench with a view while the three of us scrambled up.
In hindsight, it was more exposed than I’d anticipated. There wasn’t really a trail—just loose rock and hands-and-knees scrambling. But when we reached the top? A full 360-degree panorama stretched out before us. Cortina nestled in the valley on one side, jagged Dolomite peaks marching into the distance on every other. Worth every nerve-wracking moment.
Taking Our Time
We survived the descent (always the trickier part, isn’t it?) and spent a good while hiking around the back of the peak, finding lookout spots, and setting up the tripod for family photos. This was the day we finally used that big camera properly.
There was no rush. Nowhere we needed to be. Just a family soaking in one of the most spectacular places we’d ever been.
The Journey Down
We descended in stages, hopping off at each station to look around, take more photos, and stretch our legs. At Ra Valles, we stopped for pizza at the mountain restaurant. You could sit on the deck with those stunning views of the peaks and Cortina spread out below, but there was a chill in the air, so we opted for indoor seating. The pizza was excellent—crispy, simple, exactly what we needed.
Back in town, we meandered through the streets one last time before making the uphill trek to our apartment. There was something bittersweet about that final walk—knowing we’d be leaving soon, watching one more sunset paint the mountains gold.
It was the perfect way to end our time in Cortina—no grand plans, just following our curiosity to the top of a mountain and back down again.
Tips & Info
- Getting there: The Freccia nel Cielo gondola departs from the center of Cortina. It’s an easy walk from most accommodations in town.
- Duration: The full round trip takes about 30 minutes each way, but plan for several hours if you want to explore the summit and stop at intermediate stations.
- Tickets: Check current prices and hours at freccianelcielo.com
- What to bring: Layers (it’s significantly colder at 3,244m), sturdy walking shoes, a camera, and snacks or plan to eat at Ra Valles.
- Summit scramble: Reaching the iron cross at the true summit is optional and involves exposed scrambling on loose rock. It’s doable for adventurous families but not for everyone.
- For families: Kids might be nervous on the cable car, but the distraction of views helps. The summit area has plenty to explore without doing the exposed scramble.
- Timing: Go early to avoid crowds and have time to linger at each level.
- Olympic connection: Keep an eye out for the Super-G course and bobsled track—especially exciting if you’re visiting around the Winter Olympics!