There’s something about Acadia National Park that captures the essence of the Maine coast—rugged granite cliffs meeting the Atlantic, quiet forests draped in moss, and that particular quality of light that photographers chase. Of course, during our visit in mid-June 2023, that light was mostly filtered through a thick layer of rain clouds. But we made it work, and honestly? Some of our best memories came from those damp, imperfect moments.
Getting There and Settling In
We drove in from Brunswick with time to spare before our 3 PM campsite check-in at Blackwoods. Rather than waste the morning, we stocked up on supplies—filling our cooler with ice and enough food for the next few days—and decided to squeeze in a quick hike.
The Acadia Mountain Trail turned out to be the perfect warm-up. At just about 3 miles round trip, it’s manageable for most fitness levels, with only a few steep sections that don’t last long. The overcast weather actually worked in our favor, keeping temperatures pleasant as we climbed. The summit rewarded us with sweeping views of Echo Lake and Somes Sound—the only fjord on the eastern seaboard.
Along the way, we encountered some fascinating flora, including patches of Reindeer Moss (which, fun fact, isn’t actually moss but a type of lichen). We even spotted a few snakes on our descent—a reminder that we were guests in their home.
The Great Dining Tent Debate (I Won)
Let me just say this: my husband gave me no small amount of grief for insisting we pack a separate dining tent alongside our sleeping tent. “It’s extra weight,” he said. “We won’t need it,” he said.
Reader, it rained. A lot. This turned out to be the rainiest early season in recent memory, and that dining tent became our sanctuary. We cooked, ate, played cards, and stayed dry while the rain drummed overhead. The sleeping tent stayed a dedicated sleep zone, which made everything feel more civilized.
We split our time between two campgrounds—Blackwoods for the first two nights, then Seawall for our final evening. Both are excellent, though they have different vibes. Blackwoods feels a bit more central to the park’s main attractions, while Seawall has a quieter, more coastal atmosphere.
Day Two: Dodging Raindrops
With rain threatening all day, we opted for a driving tour rather than another hike. This is one of the beautiful things about Acadia—even from your car, the scenery is spectacular.
We explored Bar Harbor first, the charming gateway town to Acadia. The downtown area is packed with shops, restaurants, and galleries—perfect for a rainy day wander. From there, we made our way to Otter Cliffs, where the pink granite drops dramatically into the churning Atlantic. It’s one of the most photographed spots in the park for good reason.
Little Hunter’s Beach was another highlight—a secluded cobblestone beach accessible via a short path. The smooth, rounded stones have been polished by centuries of waves, and the sound of water rolling over them is almost meditative.
We hit several other wayside viewpoints along Park Loop Road, each offering a different perspective on Acadia’s diverse landscape. Dinner was back at camp that night—the dining tent came in clutch once again.
Day Three: Conquering Cadillac Mountain (and Our Patience)
This was our big day. Cadillac Mountain stands at 1,530 feet—the highest point on the North Atlantic seaboard—and we’d chosen the South Ridge Trail for our ascent.
The trail starts gently enough, winding through forest before opening onto exposed granite. It’s a steady climb, and the views along the way are genuinely stunning. What the trail descriptions don’t adequately prepare you for, however, are the false summits.
Three times—three times!—we thought we’d reached the top, only to crest the ridge and see another rise ahead. The kids were troopers for the first two, their excitement deflating each time like a balloon. After the third false summit, our youngest (affectionately known as “princess” in moments like these) hit her wall. She sat down on the granite and refused to move.
We tried the classic parent move of walking ahead, assuming she’d follow. She did not. I ended up hiking back to convince her to continue, promising the top was just over the next ridge. When that ridge revealed yet more climbing, I lost all credibility. But we pushed through together, and finally—finally—we made it.
The summit was crowded with folks who’d driven up (yes, you can do that with a timed reservation), but we’d earned our views the hard way. We found a quiet spot, broke out our snacks, and let the frustration melt away. The panoramic views of the park, the ocean, and the surrounding islands made every false summit worth it.
Thunder Hole and Dinner at Abel’s
With daylight still on our side, we stopped at Thunder Hole on our way back. This natural inlet creates dramatic booming sounds and spray when waves crash in—though timing matters. The best displays happen at mid to high tide, when waves can build enough force to compress air in the cavern. We caught it at a decent moment, enough to impress the kids and make the stop worthwhile.
After three days of camp cooking (and yes, we did grab lobster rolls at one point just to escape the rain), we decided to celebrate our Cadillac conquest with dinner at Abel’s Lobster on Mount Desert Island. Sitting on their deck overlooking Somes Sound, cracking into fresh Maine lobster—it was the perfect ending to our Acadia adventure.
Tips & Info
- Campsite reservations: Both Blackwoods and Seawall fill up fast, especially in summer. Book through Recreation.gov as early as possible.
- Cadillac Mountain drive reservations: If you want to drive to the summit, you’ll need a timed vehicle reservation. These also go quickly.
- Pack for rain: Even if the forecast looks clear, Maine weather is fickle. A dining tent or canopy is worth the extra effort when car camping.
- Acadia Mountain Trail: About 3 miles, moderate difficulty. Great views for relatively little effort. Allow 2-3 hours.
- Cadillac South Ridge Trail: Approximately 7 miles out and back. Prepare for false summits and bring patience (and snacks). Allow 4-5 hours.
- Thunder Hole timing: Check tide charts and aim for mid to high tide. Low tide means minimal drama.
- Where to eat: Abel’s Lobster is a splurge but worth it. For quicker lobster rolls, there are plenty of options in Bar Harbor.
- Park Loop Road: Even on rainy days, the scenic drive hits major highlights including Otter Cliffs, Sand Beach, and multiple overlooks.
Acadia in the rain wasn’t what we planned, but it was exactly what we needed—a reminder that adventure doesn’t require perfect conditions, just the willingness to show up and make the best of it. And maybe a dining tent.