Today was the big one—the full Cinque Terre hike from Riomaggiore to Monterosso al Mare, covering all five iconic villages in one long, hot, beautiful day.
We made our way to the Via dell’Amore trailhead—only to find out that the ticket office didn’t open until 9 a.m. It was just after 8. So, we pivoted: cappuccino + cornetto first, then hopped on the train to Manarola to start the hike from there.
Note to future hikers: If you’re planning on taking the train even twice in one day, the Cinque Terre Train Pass is absolutely worth it. We realized this too late.
Detour to Volastra = Extra Miles, Extra Elevation
From Manarola, we followed the route out of town and up toward Volastra, thanks to a trail closure between Manarola and Corniglia. This detour added some mileage and serious elevation—but also some of the best views of the coast and surrounding vineyards.
The Blue Trail normally clocks in around 9 miles if you start in Riomaggiore, but with this detour, we added a few bonus miles and a lot of stairs.
(there are hardly any pics of Lia on the stairs because she’s apparently part mt. goat or gazelle – beating us all up the stairs and barely breaking a sweat!)
We made it to Corniglia around lunchtime, grabbed some much-needed gelato and lunch, and spent a bit of time exploring this charming clifftop town.
Trail Tip: As you exit Corniglia, there’s a checkpoint for the Cinque Terre Card, so have it ready (either printed or on your phone). The proceeds go toward maintaining the trails—worth every euro.
After Corniglia, the heat started to creep up, and the trail got steeper, narrower, and drier. Our pace slowed, but the views stayed jaw-dropping. We passed through vineyards, across ancient terraces, and up stone steps worn smooth by centuries of footsteps.
About halfway between Corniglia and Vernazza, we heard the distant sound of an accordion. Soon we saw a gentleman with three dogs, sitting on the hillside, serenading passing hikers with traditional music. It was one of those surreal travel moments—unexpected, a little bizarre, but completely delightful.
A bit farther down the trail, we stumbled upon a cliffside farm stand serving the coldest, most refreshing watermelon slushy we’ve ever tasted. Shade, views, and local treats made it a perfect pit stop. There’s even an apartment for rent if you want to stay there on your way thru the 5 villages.
Corniglia to Vernazza
By the time we descended into Vernazza, we were close to 6 miles in, and it showed. The kids were tired and starting to get cranky, the parents were fading, and the sunshine had taken its toll. After a short wander through the town, we decided that the last leg to Monterosso would be by train, thank you very much although in hindside, a spit of shade, a good drink, and some rest would have probably revived us to keep going. Instead we sat on a train platform, sweating our butts off while the train was 10 min late. You live and learn. (we took exactly 1 photo in Vernazza)
Beach Dreams & Boat Plans in Monterosso al Mare
Once in Monterosso, we had big dreams of a swim and some downtime at the beach. But it turns out that 95% of the beach space is private and paid, and the small public section was absolutely packed. It was a bit of a let down. Very commercial and populated which was a stark contrast to the small villages we’d seen so far.
None of us had the energy to fight for towel space, so we made plan C: take the boat back to Riomaggiore instead of the train. It took a bit of wandering and asking around, but we eventually found the ticket office (near the train station), purchased our passes, and boarded.
⛴️ The 40-minute boat ride back was everything we needed—cool breeze, amazing views of the coastline, and the perfect way to end a long, hot day on our feet.
Back in Rio: Showers, Dinner, and One Last Night
Back in Riomaggiore, we grabbed a relaxed dinner at Old School Cocktails & Food —conveniently right outside our door. The day closed with showers, vino on the balcony, and packing up – we were moving locations tomorrow!
Day 3 Takeaways & Tips:
- Start earlier than you think you need to, especially in summer.
- Be flexible—trail closures can reroute your plans.
- The Cinque Terre Train Pass is a good investment if you’re using it 3+ times.
- Water fountains (nasone/fontanella) are available in every village—fill up often (but make sure you see a potable sign – or the absence of a non-potable sign.)
- Carry your Cinque Terre Card—you’ll need it at checkpoints.
- Public beaches are limited—arrive early or be prepared to pay for chairs/umbrellas.
- When in doubt, take the boat—it’s a gorgeous way to see the coast and rest tired legs.
We hiked across cliffs, got dusty and sunburned, drank watermelon slushies on the edge of the world, and ended the day on the sea. Cinque Terre delivered, and Day 3 was one we’ll never forget.