We grabbed one final cappuccino (one at a time—because all of us and our backpacks couldn’t fit inside the tiny coffee bar), then booked it to the vaporetto. Yesterday’s ticket was still valid—you get 24 hours from validation, and ours was stamped at 10:30 a.m.—so we hustled onto the boat to Venice Santa Lucia Station.
From there, we took the train to Venice Mestre, where our next challenge awaited: finding the rental car location.
Attempt #1? Big fat zero. The building was closed. Some quick internet sleuthing led us to a different location about 0.25 km down the road—basically a closet-sized office attached to a parking garage serving three different agencies. Thirty very hot minutes later, we had our Jeep Renegade keys and were navigating our way out of an unreasonably tight garage. The next test: Italian highways.
Getting out to the main highway was tense—it took us two tries to get into the correct lane, and a solid 30 minutes of white-knuckle navigation before we hit the autostrada, where the speed limit changes every few miles and ranges from 40mph to 80mph (or up to 120km/hr)
Italian drivers go fast, tailgate like it’s their job (but not angrily, just close), and don’t mess around in the left lane (strictly for passing). But once we settled in, the 3-hour drive from Mestre to Val Gardena began to feel like the turnpikes back home—rest stops every 30 km, a mix of trucks and cars, and beautiful countryside unfolding around us. We stopped for a quick bite and gas before leaving the main roads and heading up into the mountains.
Our apartment in Santa Cristina was absolutely charming. Conveniently located close to the bus stops and on the main drag, the Residence La Tambra is one of two properties owned by this group. Our host took plenty of time to walk us through everything—where to hike, eat, store bikes, do laundry, and more. Later we learned she was the owner, and the property has been in her family for generations.
We had the balcony family suite which meant that we had a loft area upstairs for the kids, a queen sized bed with a movable wall on the main floor, a fully stocked kitchen, living space and an awesome balcony that looked up at the Sassolungo massive.
With light still left in the day (and iffy weather ahead for the week), we loaded up and drove to Passo Gardena for a late afternoon hike.
This was our first taste of the Dolomites, and it immediately brought back Swiss Alps nostalgia. The trail meandered gently—until it didn’t. Past the Jimmi Hütte, the switchbacks started. We climbed up toward the saddle of what we called the “rock garden,” and because of the late hour, we had the entire place to ourselves.
The full trail is around 10 miles, but with time slipping away, we turned back just below the summit. It still took a while—the kids were in heaven, scrambling on every boulder they could find.
As we descended, golden hour lit up the rolling meadows and the wildflowers just beginning to bloom. It was like walking through a painting.
Back in the car, we used our surprisingly good cell signal to hunt for food. I found a place called Baita Lisas’alm, tucked way down a tiny one-lane road. It was absolutely worth the detour.
Up here, you’ll hear both German (technically Austrian dialects) and Italian, and the cuisine reflects that. Schnitzels, strudels, and a fantastic 5€ glass of wine. The food was hearty and delicious, and the setting couldn’t have been more perfect.
Back at the apartment, we showered and regrouped, then sat down to plan tomorrow’s big adventure: mountain biking the Sellaronda—a famous loop around the Sella Group peaks.
More on that soon. But for now, Dolomite dreams and deep sleep.
Tips from Day 7: Venice to Val Gardena
- Vaporetto tickets are valid for 24 hours from validation—plan your timing wisely!
- If renting a car in Italy, double-check the pickup location—they’re not always well marked.
- Italian highways are fast-paced—don’t hog the left lane and be prepared for quick merges.
- Passo Gardena is an incredible first hike in the Dolomites—go late for solitude and sunset views.
- Look for family-run accommodations in Santa Cristina—local insight and hospitality go a long way.
- Don’t skip the mountain huts! Baita Lisas’alm was a gem for regional food and local charm.
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